Saturday, January 26, 2008

 
 
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Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Missed Opportunity


Parked in the predawn light, I strained my eyes toward the surf line. Not much was showing. It was still too early to make anything out. Hyundai Joe rushed to get his board in the water. He stopped by my window long enough to utter that well worn phrase..."You should have been here yesterday." Never one to exaggerate, Joe laid the guilt on thick. Just three people had paddled out. Consistent waist to shoulder high waves peeled off the Point. An occasional rogue wave would brake in glassy water all the way to the second life guard tower. What I was watching looked nothing like yesterday's epic session until Joe dropped into his second wave. He rode a shoulder high screamer passed the Hawaiian club, passed the second life guard tower, and as far as I know, passed Tierra Del Fuego. Then the lull rolled in.

Friday, January 18, 2008

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Tuesday's Surprise Session


Johnny V powering up the face

Tom driving down the line


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